Sunday, August 29, 2010






Me and my self: ASpiritual Journey

Dr.Satyabrata Rout (India)

Chapter-1

The day seems to be much longer, as if we are chasing the sun. Time always moves in its own speed. But the speed of my mind is much ahead of the time. My excitement is crossing the limit but I have to keep it in control every moment. I was bit nervous not that I am going abroad for the first time but going through such a route that people usually avoid. This is the longest route to travel to Colombia, the far western countries. It is always easy to go to Latin America through Washington or Paris. But unfortunately I couldn’t get an USA transit visa. There is a long queue for USA. Everybody wants to go USA. It is a wealthy country with full of brains. It knows how to manipulate the world resources. So it becomes the point of attraction for everyone. My travel agent told me to wait for another 6 months to get an USA transit visa. But my schedule was fixed. I have to reach Bagota by 7th of July as my work is starting from that day. I have been invited by Beatriz Camargo, one of the pioneer of Colombian theatre and the director of “Bio-Drama School, Villa de Layva” to attend an international theatre workshop as an expert from India, organized by the school from 6th July-6th August, 2010. Though I have been given classes from 12th onwards, I decided to be there from the beginning as I want to observe the other teachers who are coming across the globe (Ecuador, Africa, Italy, Argentina, Maxico and Colombia etc.). So reaching there became important for me no matter how difficult the travel route is. My agent made out a route plan avoiding Washington and Chicago. But it was a long route with much higher ticket fare than my budget. The route covers Arab Emeritus, Qatar, Kuwait, Brazil, Ecuador, Pirogue, Uruguay, and Chili, Peru which includes almost all the seas and Oceans covering more than half the world. I got exited. In my childhood I have read about the stories of “Sindhbad; the sailor” and “Around the world in 80 days”. To my child’s brain they were mere fantasies (off course I enjoyed and felt as if I am the protagonist who is on the adventurous tour) not the reality. But after crossing almost 40 years of childhood days, these fantasies are going to be reality! I was thrilled from my within and decided to choose the longest route on which no one prefers to travel. My route plan was finalized. From Hyderabad I have to go to Dubai on an Emeritus air craft where I will change the flight to Sao Paulo airport at Brazil. From there I have to take Lan air ways to Lima, the capital of Peru and again I have to change flight at Lima to my final destination; Eldorado international airport at Bagota, Colombia.

Much before the departure, I reached Rajiv Gandhi International Airport, Samshabad. I checked in my luggage directly for Bogota and got the boarding card. After immigration check up I waited for the boarding call in the airport lunge. The flight was in time. It took off exactly at 4.20 AM for Dubai. Hyderabad to Dubai took 3hrs.30 mnts. And in the fine morning of 6th July I arrived at Dubai Airport. It was my first visit to Dubai airport. A beautiful city with high rising buildings across the Arabian sea was revealed slowly and clearly with the golden rays of the morning sun as the flight coming down to the run way. But it was impossible for me to go out of the airport area and there was enough time for my next flight to Sao Paulo, I planned to have a look around the airport. It was morning and people from all parts of the world were waiting for connecting flights to reach their different destinations. The airport lounge was almost full with people. Some passengers were even sleeping on the floor as we do in our railway stations in India. Some of the children, may be from Brazil or Chili, were playing games as their parents were leaning against their luggage.

The duty free shops at the DXB airport are the biggest in the world. Full of with the modern needs the shops always attract the tourists. From Branded liquors, Cigarettes, Cosmetics, electronic gazettes, mobiles, laptops, and cloths to all kinds of consumer goods are showcased for sale in the shops. The lighting effects add to the glamour. One must have a look at all these modern amenities to update the test but near impossible to purchase by a person like me. They are very costly at least for me. So I thought to take a little rest and wait for my flight.

At around 10 Am the boarding call for Sao Paulo was announced. As I have already my seat card collected from Hyderabad, I entered into the flight with no trouble. It was a huge aero plane with more than 300 seating capacity. It took off at 10.30 Am for Sao Paulo. I got a window seat and again interacted with Dubai’s sky view. This time the view was not so attractive because of bright sun light. Breakfast was served immediately after the belt sign is off. I was offered a Hindu breakfast, parontha, omlet and fruit salad. Most of the people in the flight went to sleep after the breakfast.It takes 15 hours from Dubai to Sao Paulo and it was a nonstop flight. Fifteen hours constant sitting at one place without much movement is really a hard task. One can enjoy the trip and spent hours in a train interacting with nature but in a flight! Ohh……….. So best thing is to read and sleep. I had kept some books with me for the journey and started reading one book “Prabasi Bharatiya ki Kalam se….” written by Badal Sircar one of the legendary theatre philosopher of our time. The book couldn’t hold me back for long time. I felt asleep. The air hostess woke me up for lunch. This time it was rajma rice with pieces of chicken on it. Next to me was sitting a young man of 30s from China. He was on a business trip to Brazil. He looked at my meal and said, “What is this?” In response I said, “ it is an Indian meal I have ordered while booking my online ticket”. “Are you an Indian”…. “Yes” I said. He stared at me a while and made a bow to me with folded hands, “So you are from the land of Buddha. I am a Buddhist but never gone to India. But I heard a lot about your country. One day I will visit India may be on a business deal”. He started eating. I saw the man who was talking of lord Buddha just before few minutes, eating hams and sushes happily. He offered me some but I refused. At last he gave me some cakes to eat. Our flight crossed the north part of Africa and started flying above the South Atlantic Ocean. The air above the Atlantic was not quite always and generates low pressure time to time. Though our air craft was flying above 13000 meters above the sea level, still then it could not surpass the bad weather above the sea. So time and again the pilot has to give the signal of seat belt sign. It was a thrilling experience for all the passengers. Almost for 5 hours there was utter silence inside the space ship; no murmuring and no movement inside. At around 10.30 night local time the city lights of Brazil is visible and when the flight landed at the Sao Paulo international airport the whole flight was vibrated and filled with the sound of clapping, whistling and wild noise to mark the sign of relief….It was really a heart throbbing experience.

It was already 6.45 pm local time when we landed at Sao Paulo. My next flight to Lima is at 7.35 evening; as if no time left for my transit. I felt complexly nervous. I couldn’t understand what to do. More over I am very much new to the air port. Gaurulhos International airport, Sao Paulo is one of the largest airports of the world. Besides it was jam packed because of World cup match at South Africa. Arrival and departure gates are totally different. I was dead sure of missing mu flight and no one can even do that. “Oh’ God! What will happen now? My whole schedule will become upside down now. I am in the mid way and a stranger here. I have no spare money to spend on my ticket rebooking”. Many ill thoughts came to my mind. Every second seemed to be longer for me. Since the flight was full and my seat was towards rear, it took me another 20 minutes to come out of the flight. Now there was only 30 minutes at hand for the flights to take off. I ask at the help desk for how to transfer but the person deputed there refused me saying, “No English please”. I looked at him as if I am the most illiterate fool of the world. There stands a family perhaps searching for the same flight. He was holding his kid on his solder. He looked at me and perhaps understood my pain, spoke me in very bad English, “Are you a Pakistani?” I simply answered, “No, Indian”…. “Are you going to Lima?”…….. “Yes”. I just hold his hand tightly and begged him to help me. He told me, “Don’t worry. I am also going to Lima. My wife is from Peru. She is going home to see her ailing mother. I am French. We both work at Kuwait. Perhaps we will miss the flight but they will take care of us. Please wait here.” I was little relieved but the problem still continued… “If they will send us in another flight in the next day what will happen to me at Lima? There also I have to board a different flight to Bagota. How can I contact my hosts there and convey my plight? Somebody must be coming to the airport to receive me there. He will definitely left back. Who cares for whom in this world?”… To give a break to my thoughts a lady officer came in and spoke something in Brazilian language. The man translated for me, “The flight to Lima is delayed for an hour and she is asking to follow her towards the boarding gate”. …A sign of relief spread over my face. “Thank God. Now I can manage. At Lima the usual transit time between two flights is 2hr.30mnts. I can manage in One and half hours. Lan air handed over me both the boarding card for Lima and Bagota and promised to take care of my luggage which will be handed over at final destination.

I was very much tired of the day and hectic journey. As soon as I board the flight I fell asleep. The air hostess woke me up for the night dinner but I was so tired to take my meal so I refused. Lan air is not as good as Emirates. Comparatively it is a small air craft and congested sits. By that time my legs were paining like anything. I was only waiting helplessly to arrive at the airport. While landing at Lima International airport it was 11.30 local time. I had more than an hour for re- boarding.

Lima pe is a small but very neat and clean airport. It is not at all busy or chaotic like Sao Paulo or Dubai. An airport authority was waiting to make the passangers transferred those who are to exchange flights for their destinations. She led me to the boarding gate for my next flight to Bagota. I sat at the lunge with other passengers and wait for the boarding call……

About 0.30 am of 7th July we took up for the final destination. Usually it takes 3 and half hours from Lima to Bogota in a flight. Peru is the nearest country adjacent to Colombia and they also share the comon culture and language. Not only Peru, almost all Latin Americans speak Spanish. The countries were under Spain domination for centuries. The countries have seen blood shades, horror, civil wars, poverty, rape and human massacre. Perhaps these are the reasons the Latin Americans look to the world in a different angle and perspective. They don’t want others to share their economy and resources inside their countries… The flight took a turn towards the Pacific. For the next couple of hour it would fly over the largest ocean of the world. But on the contrary to the Pacific, my mind was restless. Last time when I came here with the invitation from the University dad Javeriana, I made some friends here. One of them was Prof. Juan Monsalve whom I have already informed about my arrival at Bogota airport and instructed him to come to the airport to receive me. But he is an old man and it was dead part of the night; if he couldn’t make so to reach in time … then! All these ill thoughts jumbled up in my mind… The pilot switch on the seat belt sign which was followed by an announcement, first in Spanish then in English. We are about to land at the Eldorado airport.

It was a cold night with showers of rain in the city. After fulfilling the formalities regarding my embrakment in to the country, I was followed by the co passengers to collect my luggage. I stood there for almost an hour but there was no sign of my luggage. It has not reached. All the passengers had already gone and I am alone standing and waiting for my bags. I got nervous. In an unknown country I am “Ek Mushafir beashwab”. At last I caught hold one ground duty officer standing there and told her about my plight. He couldn’t understand anything and talked me in Spanish. I couldn’t understand what to do. I was almost at the verge of crying. Besides my cloths I have brought with me a lot of collection of Indian culture to present here. My hard drive which is full of with my long span of work and research was there in the baggage. Apart from that I brought with me some Indian traditional music instruments as a mark of gift to Beatriz Camargo, the lady who invited me. Who is complete unknown to me only knew me through internet and corresponded through email… Tears rolled down my eyes. The officer perhaps understood my situation and left me for a while. She came back with a man who knows English. They now inquired about my luggage and after a long search found that they were not be able to transfer at Sao Paulo because I changed to a different air ways. A flash of relief passes through my mind and I was relaxed. They promised me to hand over my luggage within 48 hours and fulfilled the formalities. The interpreter asked for my address at Bagota so that they would be able to hand over. I showed him the invitation where everything was written.

While coming out from the airport it was almost 6 o’ clock. There was still rain outside. The city was just awakening. While I was looking here and there, I heard a sound of calling someone to me by my name. Prof. Monsalve was standing at a distance with an umbrella and weaving his hands. I rush towards him and we hugged each other. We are meeting each other almost after 7 years, the last he came to Delhi to work with NSD in 2003. I looked at him. He seems to be old now and tired. He laughed at me and said, “You look as usual, like before! Where is your luggage! I passed a smile and said they are coming in the next flight.” …

I found a young man with Juan. He introduced him to me. “This is Sabastiano; an accomplished graphic designer now studying theatre design at Argentina. He came to Colombia only to attend your workshop. Sabastiano will take you to his mom’s house at Bogota where you can take rest for awhile. You must be very tired of the journey now. In the afternoon Sabastiano will lead you to”Villa de Layva”, a hill lock old colonial town, 3 hours from here. Camaro lives there inside a forest and conducts her Bio-drama School there. I will join you latter…”. Prof. Monsalve left us. Luckily Sabastiano speaks a little English though not fluently. He stops before every words, then fumbles and utters carefully as if spoke wrongly. But it solved my problem. I can join the words, gestures and his thoughts and frame the structure in my mind. I looked around as if searching for something. He perhaps understood me and spoke in his Espanola voice, “ Do …ou ned … an…thingin..? (Do you need anything?)”… “Yes …a cup of tea”, I said. “ you..not..fin…d ..mmmm…tea….here…….home….tea only.”… We started for his mom’s home by a taxi.

It was almost morning at Bagota. But since there were clouds and rain it seemed to be early dawn. There was no body on the road, no traffic, so we reached the city soon. Sabastiano’s mother lives at the 26th floor of an apartment in north Bogota. She must be nearly 50 and works in a theatre company formed by her ex-husband (Sabastiano’s father). While we reach there she was ready to go to the rehearsal but waiting for me. The tea was ready for us. After little introduction with her, we 3 sat together with our cup of tea. The test was very bitter for me. Her mother added sugar to my cup saying, “We have no custom of red tea here. More over we don’t take milk with tea like your country, it spoils the test. You will be habituated to this drink slowly.” She left for the rehearsal and I was thinking of the test…….. In India we generally take tea or coffee with milk. That is our custom. But here people like tea without milk…. Test also depends upon tradition!.......................

Something jumped on my back and holds me tightly. I was shocked. Sabastiano laughed at me and said, “Nothing to be worried. It is Ophelia, our cat. It wants to make friendship with you.” The cat slowly came down from my back and sat on my lap and coiled her tail inside. While patting the little creature I asked Sabastiano curiously to know about the name of the cat. He smiled and said, “While my mom was doing the roll of Ofelia in “Lear” 2 years back, one day she got this cat roaming around alone in the rehearsal hall. She picked up it to home and named her Ofelia”…. “Wao’….it is interesting”, I said. By that time the rain has stopped and the clouds were fading away slowly. The cityscape of Bogota was emerging slowly out of the mist. Sabastiano opened the window of his living room where we were sitting. Ofelia suddenly jumped from my lap and sat on the parapet through the window. She was looking down every time and tried to jump down. Out of my curiosity I moved towards the window and looked down. The cat was sitting almost at the edge of the window shill and looking down continuously. I also looked down to know her intention. I couldn’t resist my laugh what I saw down. A group of peson was resting on the parapet of the down floor. I made a clap and they flew away. Along with that Ofelia also disappeared.

It was 8 am in the morning and I was feeling very much tired. Sabastiano went to the kitchen to prepare something for me and by the time I went to the wash room to get prepared. After breakfast I went to sleep on his bed.

At about 1 pm I wake up by the knock on the door. Sabastiano came in and invited for lunch. At the drawing room I saw a bearded middle aged man with a boy and Sabastiano’s mother waiting for me at the dining table. The man got up and hugged me by introducing himself, “I am………………….., Sabastiano’s father. I have my company and we are now preparing a Spanish play. Without any hegitation he continued, “Myself and Sabastiano’s mother are not living together. I got married to another actress from my group. This is her son”. He pointed out to that 8 year old boy who was playing with a rocking horse. I was thinking of my age old tradition by the time. What a difference in ideology, attitude and convention! We can’t think of this in India.

……..The bus left for Villa de Leyva at about 3 pm. I was told by Sabastiano that, Villa de Leyva is a small old town established by the Spanish Colonials. It is situated towards the north of Bagota in the province of Bayaca. Tunja was the old capital of the state. Villa de Leyva is known for fossils…… The bus left the main city and took the express way. The hills and landscapes were revealed on both the sides. The bus started climbing the hills. The landscapes reminded me of the road to Dharmasala from Simla in India. As the bus climbed up, I felt very cold. While coming from Bagota Sabastiano’s mom gave me a blanket and I wrapped it around. By passing through so many curves, ups and downs the bus arrived at Villa de leyva by the evening. It was complete dark and raining heavily. Street lights were not enough to support our eyes. But I can guess a medieval old town ship resting in the darkness. Sabastiano called a taxi and we climbed for the Bio-Drama school on the top of a hill. We reached there in a few minutes. Astonishingly I could not find any lamp post on the way to Teatro itinerant del Sol. It was dinner time and as I saw about 20 people were gathered in a small hut and taking their dinner and a big candle was burning in the middle. Everybody got up and greet me as I arrived as if they were waiting for me. They served me some food. Though I was hungry I didn’t like the test. It was prepared by olive oil. There were d very low lights here and there in which you can’t recognize any thing. Moreover one can experience mud everywhere. So I waited inside that small dining- kitchen for Beatriz Camargo.

While I was looking around I felt a human figure coming nearer from a distance. She approached me and everybody stood up at her presence. She hugged me tightly quite for some time. She is Beatriz Camargo, the leady who runs the school. She must be 7o year old with white hair but looked much stronger to me. At the first glance she reminded me the “Mother Courage” a strong lady from Brecht’s play. But why she leaved here on the hill top, alone, completely away from habitation and it was almost a jungle! I couldn’t get the answer and it was not the right time to ask all these to her. So I kept my queries for the next time and passed a smile to her. She spoke me in clear English, “Did you finish your dinner? We eat early. Exactly at 9 pm the bell will ring and all the lights will be off. There will be Sacred Silence in this hill top. We will start the class at 7 am tomorrow. You must be tired of the journey. Go to your hotel. I will meet you there tomorrow around 9.30 morning.” She called a taxi and instructed the driver to drop me at the hotel Mesopotamia.

Contd…………………..

Satyabrata Rout/University of Hyderabad/India.

No comments: